PDN Photo of the Day

July 11, 2018

Rethinking A Century of Fashion Photography

GEORGE HOYNINGEN-HUENE (American, born Russia, 1900–1968), Bathing Suits by Izod, Paris, 1930. Gelatin silver print, 43.2 × 33 cm (17 × 13 in.) Collection of Richard and Allison Roeder. © Horst
GUY BOURDIN (French, 1928–1991), Untitled, for Charles Jourdan, Spring 1977, negative, 1977; print later. Chromogenic print 45.7 × 34.3 cm (18 × 13 1⁄2 in.) Porto Cervo, Italy. The Estate of Guy Bourdin/Courtesy of Louise Alexander Gallery. © The Guy Bourdin Estate 2017, courtesy of Louise Alexander Gallery.
SCOTT SCHUMAN (American, born 1968), Style Profile, Ni’ma Ford, December 22, 2011. Pigment print, 30.5 × 21.6 cm (12 × 8 1⁄2 in.) New York, Courtesy of Danziger Gallery. © The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman
GORDON PARKS (American, 1912–2006), Bettina and Frances McLaughlin-Gill, New York, 1950. Gelatin silver print, 34.3 × 27.3 cm (131⁄2 × 103⁄4 in.) Collection of Beth Rudin DeWoody. Photograph by Gordon Parks / Courtesy of and © The Gordon Parks Foundation.
HERB RITTS (American, 1952–2002), Fred with Tires, Hollywood, 1984. From the Body Shop series. Gelatin silver print, 47.1 × 38.6 cm (189⁄16 × 153⁄16 in.) Los Angeles, J. Paul Getty Museum. Gift of Herb Ritts Foundation, 2011.18.25. © Herb Ritts Foundation
JEAN-BAPTISTE MONDINO (French, born 1949), Miss M, negative, 1988; print, 2011. Chromogenic print, 40.6 × 31.8 cm (16 × 12 1⁄2 in.) Los Angeles, Courtesy of M+B Gallery and the artist. © Jean-Baptiste Mondino
JAMEL SHABAZZ (American, born 1960), The Latin Connection, negative, 1982; print, 2018. Chromogenic print, 25.4 × 20.3 cm (10 × 8 in.) Hempstead, NY. Courtesy of Jamel Shabazz.
PAOLO ROVERSI (Italian, born 1947), Guinevere in Black Dress by Yohji Yamamoto, Paris, 1996. Pigment print, 51.8 × 40 cm (20 3⁄8 × 15 3⁄4 in.) Los Angeles, J. Paul Getty Museum. Purchased with funds provided by the Photographs Council, 2016.96. © Paolo Roversi
BRUCE WEBER (American, born 1946), Bruce Hulse and Talisa Soto, for British “Vogue,” Bellport, NY, negative, 1982; print later. Gelatin silver print, 59.7 × 49.5 cm (231⁄2 × 191⁄2 in.) New York. Courtesy of Bruce Weber and Nan Bush. © Bruce Weber
Sarah Moon (French, born England, 1941), Sveta, for Hussein Chalayan, 2000. Carbon print, 57.2 × 43.4 cm (221⁄2 × 171⁄16 in.) Los Angeles, J. Paul Getty Museum, 2011.52. © Sarah Moon
GEORGE HOYNINGEN-HUENE (American, born Russia, 1900–1968), Bathing Suits by Izod, Paris, 1930. Gelatin silver print, 43.2 × 33 cm (17 × 13 in.) Collection of Richard and Allison Roeder. © Horst
GUY BOURDIN (French, 1928–1991), Untitled, for Charles Jourdan, Spring 1977, negative, 1977; print later. Chromogenic print 45.7 × 34.3 cm (18 × 13 1⁄2 in.) Porto Cervo, Italy. The Estate of Guy Bourdin/Courtesy of Louise Alexander Gallery. © The Guy Bourdin Estate 2017, courtesy of Louise Alexander Gallery.
SCOTT SCHUMAN (American, born 1968), Style Profile, Ni’ma Ford, December 22, 2011. Pigment print, 30.5 × 21.6 cm (12 × 8 1⁄2 in.) New York, Courtesy of Danziger Gallery. © The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman
GORDON PARKS (American, 1912–2006), Bettina and Frances McLaughlin-Gill, New York, 1950. Gelatin silver print, 34.3 × 27.3 cm (131⁄2 × 103⁄4 in.) Collection of Beth Rudin DeWoody. Photograph by Gordon Parks / Courtesy of and © The Gordon Parks Foundation.
HERB RITTS (American, 1952–2002), Fred with Tires, Hollywood, 1984. From the Body Shop series. Gelatin silver print, 47.1 × 38.6 cm (189⁄16 × 153⁄16 in.) Los Angeles, J. Paul Getty Museum. Gift of Herb Ritts Foundation, 2011.18.25. © Herb Ritts Foundation
JEAN-BAPTISTE MONDINO (French, born 1949), Miss M, negative, 1988; print, 2011. Chromogenic print, 40.6 × 31.8 cm (16 × 12 1⁄2 in.) Los Angeles, Courtesy of M+B Gallery and the artist. © Jean-Baptiste Mondino
JAMEL SHABAZZ (American, born 1960), The Latin Connection, negative, 1982; print, 2018. Chromogenic print, 25.4 × 20.3 cm (10 × 8 in.) Hempstead, NY. Courtesy of Jamel Shabazz.
PAOLO ROVERSI (Italian, born 1947), Guinevere in Black Dress by Yohji Yamamoto, Paris, 1996. Pigment print, 51.8 × 40 cm (20 3⁄8 × 15 3⁄4 in.) Los Angeles, J. Paul Getty Museum. Purchased with funds provided by the Photographs Council, 2016.96. © Paolo Roversi
BRUCE WEBER (American, born 1946), Bruce Hulse and Talisa Soto, for British “Vogue,” Bellport, NY, negative, 1982; print later. Gelatin silver print, 59.7 × 49.5 cm (231⁄2 × 191⁄2 in.) New York. Courtesy of Bruce Weber and Nan Bush. © Bruce Weber
Sarah Moon (French, born England, 1941), Sveta, for Hussein Chalayan, 2000. Carbon print, 57.2 × 43.4 cm (221⁄2 × 171⁄16 in.) Los Angeles, J. Paul Getty Museum, 2011.52. © Sarah Moon

In 1911, the French publisher Lucien Vogel challenged Edward Steichen to create the first artistic, rather than documentary, fashion photographs, a moment that is now considered to be a turning point in the history of fashion photography.

Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography (Getty Publications, July 10, 2018) is an enlightening survey of one hundred years of fashion photography, illustrated with more than three hundred photographs by the genre’s most famous practitioners, including Richard Avedon, Lillian Bassman, Guy Bourdin, Erwin Blumenfeld, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Hiro, Inez & Vinoodh, Peter Lindbergh, Man Ray, Helmut Newton, Nick Knight, Gordon Parks, Irving Penn, Herb Ritts, Edward Steichen, and Tim Walker, and lesser-known but influential artists such as Corinne Day, Gleb Derujinsky, Toni Frissell, and Kourken Pakchanian, among others.

The photographs are presented alongside a selection of costumes, fashion illustrations, magazine covers, and advertisements.

Icons of Style reevaluates the history of fashion photography and brings the story up-to-date with the most recent developments in the field, including digital photography, photo retouching, street photography, and fashion blogging.

Paul Martineau, associate curator of photographs at the J. Paul Getty Museum and the book’s author writes: “Long overlooked, the gradual integration of fashion photographs into museum collections will make it easier for these pictures to be evaluated in terms of the larger history of the medium of photography.”

The book is accompanied by the exhibition Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography, 1911–2011 which is on view from June 26 until October 21, 2018, at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Getty Center, Los Angeles. The exhibition is curated by Paul Martineau.

Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography
Getty Publications, July 10, 2018

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