©2009 James Nachtwey/National Geographic

Photos from “Indonesia: Facing Down the Fanatics,” a story in National Geographic’s October 2009 issue. Above: The National Mosque in Jakarta can hold 120,000 souls for Friday prayers. Arab traders brought Islam to the region a thousand years ago. Now 86 percent of Indonesia’s 240 million citizens are Muslim, mostly Sunni.

©2009 James Nachtwey/National Geographic

“Live respected or die as a martyr” reads the red-letter motto on the hoods of Front Pembela Islam members. Each year these self-appointed enforcers rally in Jakarta neighborhoods before and during the holy month of Ramadan, intimidating “purveyors of vice” such as bar owners and prostitutes. Last year their leader was jailed for inciting violence.

©2009 James Nachtwey/National Geographic

Women work at a West Sumatra gas station. Economic crises have persuaded many Indonesian families not to rely only on men’s earnings. More than half of all women have jobs, a number that grows each year.

©2009 James Nachtwey/National Geographic

Mirroring the prophet, the men at one An-Nadzir commune in South Sulawesi shun technology, tie their turbans and dye their hair as they think Muhammad did, and condemn all forms of violence.

©2009 James Nachtwey/National Geographic

Facing the dawn, women of the An-Nadzir commune begin Islam’s Feast of the Sacrifice, which celebrates the Koran’s account of God sparing the prophet Ismail. As the sun rises, their prayers join those raised by a chorus of Indonesia’s Muslims, fundamentalist and moderate alike: “Allah akbar.” God is great.

©2009 James Nachtwey/National Geographic

Pilgrims attired in special garments symbolizing purity and equality before God prepare to depart for Mecca. Last year some 200,000 Indonesians made the hajj, more than from any other nation except Saudi Arabia.